Staining wood can take a simple piece of timber and turn it into something truly special. Whether you're refreshing a piece of furniture or putting the finishing touches on a custom wood benchtop, understanding how to stain wood properly makes all the difference between a professional-looking result and a patchy disappointment.
We've been crafting solid wood products since 1990, and we've learned a thing or two about what makes a great stain job. This guide walks through the process so you can achieve beautiful, lasting results.
Staining wood allows you to change the timber's natural colour while still showcasing its beautiful grain. It also gives you more customisation, letting you match timber to any style of home through the colours you choose. Some lighter timbers like Maple, Oak, and Ash can yellow naturally over years in natural light, so staining can actually help maintain a consistent appearance. Custom stains can even be achieved to match as closely as possible to existing elements such as flooring or furniture, making your timber seamlessly integrate into your space.
However, it's worth noting that whenever possible, selecting timber with your desired colour and grain from the start gives you the natural beauty without the extra work and cost. Some timbers with rich natural colours (like Heart Rimu, Matai, Kauri, Blackwood, or Walnut) rarely need staining because they're already stunning as they are.
Preparation matters more than the stain itself. Rushing this stage is the fastest way to end up with an uneven finish.
Sanding is your first priority. You'll want to sand in line with the grain rather than using an orbital sander, as circular sanding marks get accentuated once you apply stain. Any scratches or machine marks that aren't visible on raw timber will stand out like a sore thumb after staining.
The grit level you sand to (typically P120 to P150) directly affects how the timber absorbs stain, which in turn affects the shade and density of the colour. Different timbers may need slightly different sanding approaches to prepare properly.
Before you even think about opening that stain can, make sure your timber is completely clean and dust-free. Any dust particles will prevent even application and absorption. Also, verify your timber is kiln dried and suitable for interior use.
Want to see the full range of options for your project? Download The Woodsmiths Catalogue to explore what's possible.
Not all wood takes stain the same way. The most commonly stained timbers are European or USA Oak and Ash, and Bamboo. Each will take the same stain slightly differently because of variations in grain pattern and natural timber tone.
For example, our stain chart shows all samples on USA Oak (ranging from lighter options like Whitewash and Driftwood to deeper tones like Cocoa and Midnight), but you can expect variation when applying these same colours to Ash or Bamboo due to their different timber densities and natural tones.
Softwoods generally aren't recommended for staining as they tend to go blotchy. The stain absorbs at different rates across the grain, which isn't as consistent as in hardwoods.
Engineered wood and veneer wood products also react differently to stain than solid timber.
Both can be stained, but they require different techniques than solid wood due to their construction and absorption rates.
Kitchen by Hewe Architectural Cabinetry
The biggest mistake people make? The finished colour doesn't match their chosen sample. This usually comes down to three factors:
Always test your stain on a reasonably sized sample (around 300x200mm) of the same timber using the exact finish process you plan to use. This small step saves enormous headaches later.
When applying stain, work in the direction of the grain and keep your overlap consistent. Never work across the grain. Whether you spray or wipe on the stain, and how long you wait before wiping it off, will all affect the final colour.
Your choice depends on the application method and what protective finish you'll use over the top. Wiping stains works brilliantly for smaller projects and areas. Solvent-based or water-based stains may be better for larger projects when spray application is possible.
We offer a range of standard stain colours (from subtle Sandstone and Graphite to rich Earth and Gunsmoke tones), and customised stain colours are available on request if you're after something specific.
Remember: stains must be compatible with whatever clear polyurethane or oil finish you'll apply as the final protective coat. Mixing incompatible products can ruin all your hard work.
Kitchen design by Andrea Ellis of Kitchen Studio North Shore
Many DIYers don't realise this: applying stain changes the timber's colour but doesn't protect or seal it. You'll need additional coats of polyurethane, resin, or oil for durability.
We often apply stain before coating with two-pack lacquer or our Resin finish. These finishes require minimal maintenance while offering excellent long-term durability.
Staining timber is genuinely an art form. Experience matters if you want consistent, professional results. While smaller projects are definitely achievable at home with patience and proper preparation, larger or more visible pieces might benefit from professional expertise.
Following proper preparation steps, testing your process, and working methodically will get you far better results than rushing through the job.
Sometimes the best approach is not to stain at all. If you're working with timber that already has the colour and grain you want, you'll save time and money while getting the authentic beauty of the natural timber.
For those timbers that yellow over time, though, staining can be a smart preventative measure that maintains your desired appearance for years to come.
We'd love to show you examples of our handcrafted wood benchtops and other timber products, both stained and natural. Explore our gallery to see what's possible for your next project.